Installation Tips
for the AWS™ Pedestal & Joist Plate Systems
[ Additionally, view our AWS™ Videos ]
A typical installation will start off at the threshold of a door or control point provided by the architect or contractor. The first height of the AWS™ pedestal is then determined. A standard chop saw [with a plastic-compatible fine tooth blade] can be used to cut the PVC to the desired height, less 1/8" each for Top and Bottom Cap insets. (Example: A 2" high pedestal needs to have a piece of PVC cut to 1-3/4".)
- Each top shim is designed to snap in to the top cap. Each bottom shim snaps into the bottom cap, and shims are designed to stack for additional height.
- Bottom shims are scored and can be broken in half using the one-half as a shim under the low side on a severely sloped roof system. You are only building up the low side with this application. Do not attempt to cut the PVC at an angle to compensate for the slope of the deck.
- In a triangle or non-90 degree corner you can use a bottom cap in place of the top cap. You are getting the same elevation (1/8") but do not have to fool with the tabs on the top cap. Two bottom caps work well if you need to support the center of a large paver. It gives you a flat top in this application.
- Do you have less than a two-inch clearance at a threshold? Start that row out using either a top cap on a buffer pad (5/8" profile) or if even less is needed you can start that row with a joist plate on the buffer pad (1/4" profile).
- When setting a pedestal against the wall/perimeter of the building/house you will want to be able to set your pedestal far enough under the two pavers at that intersection as to hide it from view. The top cap and joist plate have four (4) fins designed to maintain consistent spacing of your pavers at every intersection. Use a utility hammer to knock off two (2) fins allowing the pedestal to slide along the seam between the pavers while still providing the support needed at that point. Top shims and bottom shims as well as the buffer pad function the same as always is this set.
–OR-
Build your perimeter pedestal using the new perimeter top cap and base cap. Use top shims and ½ buffer pad same as if making a standard pedestal. Place the perimeter pedestal as close to the containment as possible for a solid support. The single spacer fin provides the same 1/8” seem as regular top caps. Perimeter pedestals are actually stronger than regular sets. - Always use a buffer pad on a waterproof membrane. It prevents the ABS bottom cap from ever creating a wear spot on the membrane. This is your insurance policy against repair years down the road.
- Our installation crews normally work in four man teams. One keeps the pavers supplied to the installation site. One runs the chop saw and does the entire PVC cutting. PVC is usually cut for each new row as needed. You count how many intersections will need pedestals, measure in a couple of locations to get the height right and call out to the cutter how many at what length are needed. Two paver installers are setting and leveling.
- Pedestal orders are normally calculated with up to a 5% override. This gives the installer enough parts to cover for unexpected corners, planter boxes that never show up on the drawing, bump outs that are created by framers who needed a little room for a drain chase and so on. On a 1000 pedestal installation you should be planning 1050 pedestals to cover the project. Overnight shipping and lost installation time is much more costly in the long run.
- Always consult an engineer to determine load limits for your projects.